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Name: | Tony Harris
(tonyrharris@hotmail.com)
| | Date: | Mon 22 Sep 2008 20:04:01 BST | | Subject: | Temperature guage eroneous | | | The temperature guage on my 1973 4/4 is eroneous in that it is reading too high.
Having replaced the temperature sender and carried out cooling circuit checks: I have narrowed the error to the "Instument voltage regulator." This unit hidden high up behind the dash glove box, also suppplies the fuel tank sender - although this is working normally.
The trade with longer memories of these older systems say this is quite possible ( though I don't see why).
Does anyone know for a supplier? They are not with the usual few main Mog Agents or with Classic Ford etc? | | | Post Reply | Display replies to this message
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| 18 | |
Name: | Philpot
(DWPLTD@aol.com)
| | Date: | Mon 25 Feb 2008 15:43:57 GMT | | Subject: | This months topical tip. | | | Recently the conversation got round to the article in Miscellany about improving headlamps. There are a number of ways available to up-rate the light output from headlamps, but firstly it may pay to look for a simple [cheap] solution. The the glass or lens of headlamps can get quite damaged. In the worse case they look as if they have been sand blasted, which in fact they probably have. This together with deteriotion of the reflector will reduce efficiency considerably. Light units are under £20 and a pair of the older sealed units can be bought for less than this.
A while ago I wrote about bio-diesel. I see that a bio-fuel has been used to power a commercial airliner. I also note that a large bus company in East Anglia has stopped using it due to waxing this winter? | | | Post Reply | Display replies to this message
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| 17 | |
Name: | philpot
(DWPLTD@aol.com)
| | Date: | Thu 31 Jan 2008 18:36:28 GMT | | Subject: | This months topical tip. | | | Remove your sidelamp lens, little screw on top. Put it in with the washing up and scrub the mud from the inside. When replacing them make sure the 'o'ring is in good condition [a bit of clear silicon sealer may help]. I know they are only parking lamps and you rarely use them but it makes your car look a lot more cheerful. It's a bit like a girls getting a new lipstick? | | | Post Reply | Display replies to this message
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| 16 | |
Name: | philpot
(DWPLTD@aol.com)
| | Date: | Thu 20 Dec 2007 18:35:34 GMT | | Subject: | This months technical tip | | | Bin doing a bit of plumbing recently! Came across this by accident. As you probably know most tubes come in 3-4 metre lengths. This means that when poked down the footwell they stick some distance out the back. The end of these tubes tends to be in an area of low pressure behind the car. As speed increases any dirt in the footwell gets sucked up and out the tube, an excellent way of cleaning the interior of the car. Of course the effects of a 100mm foul water pipe will be different to 15mm copper, as will the speed at which you travel. I would urge members to experiment for themselves. If you have just come off the beach or live in the southern part of our area you may have a problem with sand, where as those who live further north may be troubled by clay. Those who don't mind adding weight to their car could fit up a permanent system of ducting, even with a control system that cleans the car every couple of days when it reaches the critical speed. | | | Post Reply | Display replies to this message
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| 15 | |
Name: | philpot
(DWPLTD@aol.com)
| | Date: | Sat 27 Oct 2007 17:58:00 BST | | Subject: | Diesels | | | Women’s suffrage, the minimum wage, unleaded petrol; all of these were trailed by the media as the start of the end of the world. Of course life went on, although I note that girls as young as eighteen are now allowed to vote. At the moment there seems to be a lot of talk about biodiesel, that is diesel oil manufactured from plants, so I thought I would add to the confusion. OK, OK Morgan don’t make a diesel, that really would signal the end of western civilisation as we know it, but I know a number of you run ‘old oilers’ as second cars. The fact is that, from April next year all diesel oil sold in the UK will contain between 2,5 - 5% biodiesel. This percentage is set to go up to meet targets for use of renewable fuels. Diesel oil made entirely from vegetable matter is designated B100 indicating 100% biodiesel so unsurprisingly a blend of 5% biodiesel is B5. The concerns? Biodiesel has a higher boiling point than conventional diesel. This means that if any unburnt fuel that finds its way into the sump it is less likely to ‘boil off’ thereby diluting and contaminating the engine oil. So it may be necessary to change engine oil more frequently. Biodiesel attracts and absorbs water better than its mineral based companion. This in turn aids the growth of bacteria in the fuel tank, a problem well known to boat owners. This should not be a major concern but worth making sure that the tank is fully topped up if you are not using the car for an extended period. Another less attractive characteristic of biodiesel is its aggressive cleaning action that can attack hoses, zinc coatings, paintwork and anything stuck to the inside of the fuel tank. This combined with the water absorption will probably mean fuel filters will need changing more frequently and most certainly following a change to a high biodiesel content. The old problem of ‘waxing’ is more likely with biodiesel prompting one manufacturer to suggest the use of conventional winter grade diesel when low temperatures are encountered. As a user it is essential that you abide by the vehicle manufacturers instructions as their levels of acceptance vary. It seems to be generally agreed that biodiesel up to B5 is in effect the same as normal diesel oil and should not present any problems. One final word, diesels are as quite as a petrols, maybe at 70mph on the motorway but not at 0700 when you live next door to one.
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